Improvement in hem ming-guides for sewing-machines



BARNUM &-TYLER. Sewing Machine Hemming Guide.

Panted May 24,A 1859.

Zvr/ wal-070* NITED STATES PATEIWI OFFICE.

DANIEL BAENUM, or JERsEY oIrY, N. J., AND s. G. TYLER., or QUINCY, ILL.

IMPROVEMENT lNHEMMlNG-GUIDES FOR SEWING-MACHINS.

Specification forming part of Letters PatentNo. 24.088,dated May 21,1859.

To all whom, t may concern:

Be it known that we, DANIEL BAENUM, of Jersey City, in the State of NewJersey, and STEPHEN G. TYLER, of Quincy, Adams county, in the State ofIllinois, have invented new and useful improvements in machinery to beused as auxiliaries to aid the hands' in determining the width of hemson the edges ,of ilexi- Figure 1 is a plan view; Fig. 2, a/sectionthrough the line A a, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a plan, with No. 1, Fig. 4, inits place for work; and Fig. 4 shows adjusting-plates No. 1, No. 2, No.3, No. 4, to be used in Fig. 1, as shown in Fig. 3, for making hems ofdifferentwidths.

The nature of our invention consists in making a hcmmer of a U-shapedhollow conical tube with a slot, in whichthat part of the edge offlexible material designed to form the second fold of a hem istechnically turned in on the under side ofthe material, (the main foldof the hem having been turned under by the hand before the materialentered the tube,) and in constructing and combining therewith ahorizontal plate with a vertical lip, bearing (by means of a spring)against the slot and U side of the conical tube, to aid the hand inkeeping the said portion of the edge to be A turned in within the tubeand against the interior concave surface of the. tube, causing the sameto deflect and roll or ,double over on itself as it approaches the apexor small end of the cone, and turning the edgein between the sides ofthe folds made by the hand while Ypassing through and out of the smallend of they tube, wherethe feed-foot presses the folds down and holdsthem while the needle is stitching and completing the hem, leaving thefairstitch upon the right side of the garment-a most importantimprovement. rlhe hemmer is therefore auxiliary, and cannot be usedexcept tol complete a hem previously commenced by the hand.

Heretofor' all hemming apparatus known has required the hem to beturnedor folded upon the upper or wrong side, and of course the fair-stitch ismade upon the wrong side of the garment, and necessarily leaving theright side without a good finish, especially with single threadmachines. This difficulty has, through necessity, been submitted to, forthe reason that no means have been known here! tofore by which to turnthe folds on the under side and stitch them properly on the right side.

Our improvements furnish a complete remedy for all the difficultiesheretofore expert enced in the use of hemming machinery, and they are sosimple that any person acquainted with sewing-machines can at once makethe preparatory fold by the hand and use them with perfect success,giving aoomplete nish by turning the hem under and leaving thefair-stitch upon the right side, this last being an important feature ofour invention.

To enable others to make and use our invention, we refer to the drawingswith letters and numbers of reference, the same letters and numbersreferring to the same parts in the different figures.

a, Figs. 1 and 2, shows the bed plate of the hemmer, and b a U-shapedhollow conical tube, with a slot, j, Fig. 2,` for the cloth to slidethrough edgewise, with the edge in the hollow of the tube.

` c is a horizontal plate with a pivot, 7c, at one corner, said platebeing raised at c', with a vertical lip or edge bearing against the flatside of the tube in Fig. 1 and 'against the edge of the adjustable plateNo. 1 in Fig. 3.

d, Figs. 1 and 2, is a spring bearing againstr the vertical portion ofthe plate c, causing the same to turn on the pivot 7c and act as aspring to keep the edge of the material within the tube b, causing theedge to deflect and roll or double offer on itself as it moves throughthe tube b. The plate c is attached to a slotted slide, f, fitted intocorresponding slides, g, and fitted also with a set-screw, e, for thepurpose of adjusting the springplate c to the different adjusting-platesNos. 1,2, 3, and 4, Fig. 4.

h, Figs. 1 and 2, is a solid piece of metal applied to the mouth of thetube b, with a slot made horizontally to receive Z of Nos. 1, v2, 3, orof Fig. 4, as shown in Fig. 3 by the dotted lines, for the purpose ofmaking differ ent widths of hems, as may be desired. The solid metal halso closes up the upper part of the mouth of the tube b, leaving a sloton the under side extending to the center of the concave of the tube,a-nd thus determines the amount or width of the edgeof the material tobe received within the tube b, and as the vdiameter or depth of the tubeat its mouth is about twice that of its small 'or delivery end, thatportion of the material within the tube is deflected and caused to rollor turn over upon itself, so that it passes out of the tube double, theedge turned over constituting the second fold, which is thus broughtbetween Athe upper and lower portions of the fold made by the handprevious to the material entering the mouth of the tube b.

' In operating the hemmera sufficient portion of the material should befolded by rolling lunder a sufficient portion ofthe edge (the body ofthe material or garment being in front of the tube b) to reach thecenter of the concave portion of the mouth of the tube b, and insertedby placing the edge under h, with the double of the main fold toward thehollow of the hand, extending back to fi, with the'body4 0f the materialover 7L and b, when the springplate c will press gently against thatportion of the main fold within'the slot and tube, and

tend to force the edge against the lower side holding it firmly betweenthe upper and lower portions of the hem which were folded by the handuntil the needle stitches them together, completing the hem. When a hemof greater width is desired, the set-screw is loosened and thespring-plate c is moved back by means of the slot and slide f and g,when either l, 2,13, or 4, Fig. 4:, may be inserted in l1, and thespring-plate c adjusted, so as to bear against their edges, as shown inFig. 3.

The hemmer is to be attached to a sewingmachine with the fiat side of bnearly in line. with the needle, or with the line of travel of the work.o, Fig. 1, shows ahole for a fastening-screw. i

Ve are aware that various devices have been made for binding hats andcoi-ding and hemining umbrellas, as well as for turning hems upon theedges of flexible materials, in all of which eases, however,folding-guides of angular plates, or doubling-guides, or theirequivalents, are placed upon both sides of the material, so astoarbitrarily direct and control the whole folding or doublingoperation, and we do not therefore claim as new the folding of flexiblematerial either for binding hats or shoes, or hemming umbrellas, or forfornr ing hems by foldingguides which support and control the flexiblematerial upon both of its sides at the time of and at the points whereturned, as has been the case in all attempts heretofore made to turnhems that have been successful; nor do we claim the adjustablespring-plate c, -or anyof its parts separately, except as they arearranged and combined substantially as specied, nor do we claim to haveinvented a hemmer capable of turning all the folds necessary to make ahem or of any fold except to roll over the raw edge and turn it inbetween the upper and lower sides of the hem-fold previously made by thehand, but

YVhat'we vclaim as new, and which we desire to secure by Letters Patentof the United States, is-

The manner, substantially as specified, and shown in the drawings, Fig.2, of arranging and constructing a hollow conical U-shaped tube and aslot, j, in combination with ahorizontally-acting spring-plate, c, orits equivalent, bearing against the stud j and tending tir press theedge of the flexible material, when the same is placed within the slot.into the tube I and against thelower side of the concave surfacethereof, for the purpose of aiding the hand in turning the hem on theunder side and leav ing the fair-stitch upon the upper or right side ofthe garment, as' specified.

DANIEL BARNUDL STEPHEiT G'. TYLER.

lVitnesses Joanna BARNUM, EMILY A. BARNUM, .L R. VAN DOORN, THOMAS T.lVoonnrrr.

